A garden gate is the most frequently used moving part of a garden, and is usually the first part to rattle, sag, or seize. Wooden gates survive for much longer than metal gates, and understanding hinges, latches, and fittings is important for ensuring a long life for your garden gate. It is also worthwhile understanding how each of these parts work to avoid having to fix a gate that has dropped down every spring.
Hinges: Strength and Material
Hinges support the full weight of a gate and take the leverage of any force trying to pull the top hinge out of the post. A 900 mm wide by 1.8 m high timber gate will need a long strap hinge (also known as a tee hinge) as a short butt hinge would not be able to support the full weight of the gate. Longer straps spread the load over a longer distance along the gate rail so the screws aren’t doing all the work. As a general guide the strap should extend at least two thirds of the width of the gate.
Both size and material matter. Galvanised steel is a good, affordable option. Stainless steel is a better choice in coastal areas and other areas with high moisture (e.g. damp, shaded areas). Powder-coated steel looks nice, but, once the coating is chipped, rust starts to spread. Thin, pressed-steel hinges found in cheaper, indoor-style gates, are not a good choice because they can easily bend under a heavy load, e.g. a timber frame.
For heavier gates, consider using a bolt-through or hook-and-band type hinges. A hook-and-band hinge allows you to lift the gate off its pin, and allows you to adjust the height of the gate as the post settles. Hook-and-band hinges are best used if you need to maintain the gate. In terms of timber structures, bolt through the timber wherever you can with coach bolts and washers rather than screws. Screws, especially when used in end grain, will loosen over time.
Latches That Do What You Need
The latch should complement how the gate is used. A thumb latch (Suffolk latch) is a good choice for a side passage as it is simple and reliable, and a ring latch looks a lot more traditional on a cottage style gate. For gates where children or pets are a concern a gravity latch that drops into place is a lot safer than a latch that requires a person to remember to close it. Make sure that it is operable from both sides, or fit a separate handle on the inside if you want access restricted to one side.
The latch should be around 1m from the ground. The keep should line up with the catch. Misalignment will cause sticking and rattling. If the gate swings slightly as it settles, a latch with a wider keep gives some tolerance. For added security, a bolt or hasp and padlock can be placed at the top or bottom of the gate, and kept out of reach. These should be placed out of reach from outside the boundary.
Spring-loaded closers work well on pool gates, but get a model that’s weatherproof. Also be prepared to oil the closer once a year. The cheaper models use lower quality springs and the tension can also quickly lose. The springs can also slam the gate against the post. It is also good to check the gate frequently to make sure it is still closing and not getting hung up.
Fixings, Posts and Maintenance
Even the best hinges are useless if the post moves. Use a post that is at least 100mm square and set it in concrete a third of its total length (so a 1.8m gate would need a post set roughly 600mm in the ground), and allow the concrete to completely set for several days before hanging the gate. A wobbly post is the single biggest reason gates drop, and no hardware will fix it.
Use screws and bolts made of the same or a compatible metal as the hinges. For example, using zinc-plated screws with stainless hinges can cause staining and corrosion to occur where they touch. Use exterior-grade screws that are 50mm or longer, and pre-drill the holes to prevent splitting the timber.
Do a quick annual check. Tighten up bolts. Wipe hinges clean, and grease the pivot points and latch mechanism. Check for rust bloom and treat early. See if the gate swings free and if it is not, check the hinges. If it is not swinging freely, it may be dragging and causing problems. This may also happen if the gate is hitting the stop. Small adjustments to the positioning of the hinges is important to make sure the gate is functioning properly over the winter and isn’t causing problems.
You get what you pay for. Spending a bit extra on better hinges and a properly aligned latch and fixings pays back very quickly. Measuring your gate, weighing the hardware against the weight and exposure of your gate, and fitting it to a post will give you years of smooth and worry free operation of your gate with minimal maintenance.
